Updated: Feb 18
To address as many questions in already-received enquiries as well as those expected, let me address these matters here.
Replaced and upsized all fire extinguishers
New fender covers
Rebedded the upper-deck hardware
Recalked the upper-deck/pilot-house seam per factory procedure
Entire boat was compounded and waxed when it was put away
Hull - All of the metal has been painted and the small bare spots (< 2 sq ft total) have been primed but the bottom painting that is part of seasonal commissioning will be the next owner. I did put a blue signal layer under the black primary layer and that is still showing mostly black.
Bonding network - It's impressive how quickly connections to bonding networks will degrade. As I'd suggest for commissioning any boat, all of the connections to the bonding network should be tested/verified and at least for me, this is a regular aspect of being in the engine room... I have a maintenance policy I call "plus one". Anytime I repair/adjust/check something, I also check one (or more) things in the vicinity of the original mission. It's WAY less expensive/hassle to catch problems early.
I believe I left the zincs to whomever next commissions her.
The only one that isn't a known-quick issue is a generator oil leak that popped up early-summer last year after not exhibiting any leaking all spring and not having been run since the previous season. Many years ago, I had to run a family aerospace testing and coatings business for a couple of years. I was certified traceable back to the air force to perform a range of testing methods (mostly fluorescent penetrant, mag particle and alloy-type) which included leak testing. I did attempt a fluorescent dye test but the leak-start-up time is too slow to find the test that way. There are multiple clues this is lower rather than higher in the engine, more aft than forward, centerline/port rather than starboard, and due to a gasket or an o-ring rather than something serious. Regardless, I intend to stand behind properly restoring this essential functionality. I take care of my stuff. The generator ran flawlessly from Portsmouth to Essex at the end of the previous season where it was winterized by a NT tech who seems extremely conscientious and skilled. Email me if you're interested in the further details and the timeline of this. [UPDATE 9-17: I bumped into a mechanic who apparently works on a lot of Onan marine generators (he knew the MDKW product code or whatever it is) and once I described the timeline and other fact about it said this sort of difficult-to-locate-the-source sort of leak is actually common for that model, and he was willing to be his paycheck on it being one of two easily accessed areas, either an easy quick fix. I knew something like that had to be minor.. my money was on a gasket or o-ring from the start and it looks like that's the case.]
The combiner-relay has gone non-functional and testing reveals it's the relay itself. Simple/quick swap that I will own.
There is a screw missing from the hinge on the instrument pop-up on the fly bridge console. Guessing it was dislodged when the shrink-wrap went on. I would normally hesitate to list a missing screw, but THIS screw came down the assembly line at the NT factory and they built a trawler around it. One has to hold the screw in an orientation from inside space with something like a 1" hole off to the side. I've worked out a method and own the problem, but this kind of thing SHOULD be ridiculed:)
I had to replace the charger last year. I completed the job with the exception of one single operation. I needed to crimp something like a 12AWG to something like a 16AWG downstream lead and all I had were 12/14 and 14/16 crimps. Since I don't half-a$$ things like that even though it would take 15 seconds given I was already on that side of the engine and had the parts with me, and since it was already 10:30pm, and since my electrical parts rack was 120 miles back in my shop, I "thought".. hey, I'll just call a service provider the next morning and ask to have them do it. I'll save 6 hr of driving just for that one stupid thing. As I am statistically likely to not be impressed by the work of people I don't know, I still wrote up a full procedure (I was on the "technician's skills" team for a major computer company coming up with internal training/work standards, not that crimping needs any of that.. it covered things like replace access cover on the charger, dress the wires, use this size crimp, etc. Basics. For what would take a Radio Shack employee on his first day 5 minutes, they thought 4 hours at $100+ was "fair"... approaching $500 total. I find the observation of a neighbor on a nearby boat in the yard that the guy was there for minutes inexplicable. Also inexplicable is the thing I finally want to document here... in crawling in to or out of the engine room, the guy left a stain on the saloon carpet next to the engine room hatch. I vacuumed every GD inch that damn boat EVERY time I put it away and went home.. and some guy who was on for just long enough to perform $500 worth of crimping, puts a stain in. Others say "not noticeable" but me... I cannot NOT notice it every minute I'm there.
I believe the instrument console canvas on the fly bridge needs a small repair. I have it at home here and still need to get to that. I bought an industrial sewing machine to take care of my canvas when I got the boat and discovered I like having a sewing machine in my machine shop. I now have three. [Repaired Fall/21]
[ADDED 5/17/2021] - I was down at the boat for a third visit a couple of weeks ago and decided to check the DC voltages which revealed the starting bank and the bow thruster batteries are unhappy. I own replacing them. I REALLY wish I could get a diagram of the new charging tree from the guys who did my thruster swap.. I LOVE their work.. I think the guys who laid hands on my boat were very high skills and I simply do not say that about others but they were. I just wish I got that stupid diagram from them..asked twice.